By Sarah Eleazar
Located smack in the middle of orchards,wheat fields,a desert and a flowing river is Multan- the great melting pot of history. The old walled city with its fort,congested streets,ancient buildings and shrines melds gradually into a modern bustling city complete with its flyovers,excellent restaurants,entertainment centers and markets. Multan in my opinion is the perfect destination for all who want to eat,pray and love.
The first thing one notice’s about the city is the weather. Summers in Multan challenge anyone claiming to be hard-boiled to weather the heat it offers. Dry hot winds scorch the streets during the day (at least there’s no humidity!) making everyone run for cover,turning into dust storms towards dusk that brings down the temperature considerably. An air conditioner and a crate of chilled mangoes is your best friend in Multan during the summers.
The cuisine Multan offers varies according to how heavy ones wallet is leaving no one disappointed. Of course there are the fancy restaurants for those who dine in style:Zanzibar,MUX,Café Times,Masooms,Ramada,Shangrila,etc. But there are countless roadside barbecue shacks and broast shops for the busy traveler on the go;for those who want to sit and savor the best cuisine Multan has to offer,barbecue shacks in the old walled city offer the most reasonably priced succulent food that keeps you coming back for more. Halwa shops in this area are the most famous;selling freshly made confections which rank way above cheap rip off’s one finds at bus terminals and the airport. To ‘eat’ Multan it is absolutely essential to explore the culinary genius the old city has to offer,from the best mangoes in the country to the sweetest and richest halwas to the most flavorsome and tender mutton chops. This place is divine in more than one way.
Multan is most widely known as the City of Saints. Every year thousands of pilgrims journey to the shrine of their beloved Pirs for urs and to pray for intercession. Whether one adheres to this belief system or not the tranquility that blankets the shrines touches all who pass through the fort gates. Shah Rukne Alam’s mausoleum is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Multan. Its architecture,frescoes and intricate artwork a treat for those with an aesthetic eye and the worshipful whispers of prayers the perfect spiritual retreat. The shrine of Shah Shams Tabriz,patron saint of Multan,merits a visit if not for the beautiful architecture and green dome,then for the serenity and reverential silence that is the hallmark of this shrine where thousands of devotees enter the gates each day. Devotees distributing sweets and food outside the shrine eagerly share the legend of Shah Shams Tabriz to anyone willing to listen. Legend has it that the great Sufi so beloved by God called the sun down to the city of Multan when the inhabitants of the city refused to provide fire to roast his fish- the raison d’être for Multan’s relentless weather. The entire list of shrines and mosques one must visit when in Multan is extensive;a simple rikshaw driver can double as a guide in this city and help visit these otherworldly havens that supersede and yet embrace all belief systems.
No journey into the heart of Pakistan’s spiritual centre would be complete without a visit to the St. Mary’s Church and the Catholic Church in Multan. Located in the relatively posh area of the city,the Cantonment,these are easily accessible and a salve for sore eyes. The St. Mary’s Cathedral is more than a hundred years old. While the building has undergone slight renovation here and there the old age essence is encapsulated perfectly and the interior exudes an air of divine mystique. With its incredibly high ceiling and perfect acoustics that carries a whisper to the end;St. Mary’s Cathedral speaks volumes about British architecture and art. The frescoes are perfectly preserved and finely detailed. The lush lawns are open to the general public and perfect to lounge a lazy evening in. The Catholic Church’s architecture tries to replicate St. Peters Basilica in Rome and is beautiful and ostentatious in imitation.
Located in the bosom of the shrine of Shah Shams Tabriz is the Gurudwara Thara Sahib which is more of a monument to Jagat Guru than is a proper Sikh temple for worship. Multan was also home to a lot of famous Hindu temples,the fact that the Rig Veda was written here is of significance itself. Many of these however fell prey to religious intolerance and have been shut down or built elsewhere in obscurity to protect Hindus.
Multan’s history is as vibrant as the ascetic and Sufi culture here. The Bloody Bastion (Khooni Burj) is located in the Old Walled City and is where Alexander the Great is purported to have been injured on his way to the Indus Valley,this was also the battleground for the Siege of Multan.Ghanta Ghar or Clock Tower Multan dates back to the seventeenth century and has now been converted to the Multan Museum. Walking in the Walled City,one cannot help but admire the beautiful gates that were once the only means of entering this city.
One of the best things about Multan would have to be the craft centers and of course khussa shops. Not only are prices very reasonable but shopkeepers and craftsmen will go to great lengths in providing you with footwear and handicrafts made to the customer’s specifications. One is simply not disappointed while looking for beautiful khussas in this city. A handicrafts shop in the very beginning of Cantonment market sells beautiful camel bone jewelry,ornate boxes,hand-woven carpets and wall hangings. The cantonment market is an excellent place to go spend some money;it is relatively modern but still has women shopping in meandering alleys with children and friends in tow. Chen One Towers and Gulgasht Market are also famous shopping centers one might want to visit.
It is unfair to call Multan a mere city. Its rich history tells tales in every building nook and cranny of the place regardless of how much construction one might carry there. The people there are beautiful soft spoken and hospitable. Anyone and everyone takes it on themselves to regale visitors with tales of Sufis and Saints,of battles and victories,of mangoes and khussas. Multan is storybook destination that one must have the perspicacity to enjoy and appreciate.
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Very nice... have visited Multan in search of Siege of Mooltan history few months ago .
ReplyDeleteCan you help me locating some British graves of those killed in action I now have unearthed their location .Also places where action took place .
Await reply .With thanks